Turtle Brooch in Yellow Gold, Emeralds and Rubies

Brooch in 18k (750/1000) yellow gold depicting a turtle. The openwork shell is formed of flowers of different sizes in matte yellow gold, set at their centres with brilliant-cut emeralds. The turtle's eyes are rubies. Vintage animal brooches held a central place in the creations of the great French jewellery Maisons between the 1950s and the 1970s. The bestiary of Van Cleef & Arpels, in particular, illustrates this trend towards figurative, playful jewellery designed to be worn every day. In contrast to Art Deco brooches, often rigid and heavily gem-set, these pieces explore supple, textured forms, where yellow gold sits alongside coloured stones, enamel or cabochons, in a freer, more narrative spirit.

This brooch was probably made by the Pons workshop, which worked for many Maisons of the Place Vendôme.

French work from the 1970s. Eagle's head hallmark for 18-carat gold and trace of a maker's mark.

Dimensions: 4.1 x 2.6 x 1.5 cm

Gross weight: 18.39 grams